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I’m sitting in the room I grew up in. We moved here when I was six. On the end of my bed is a quilt my grandmom made for me with the state of Texas sewn over large squares of white. Sunlight comes in through a window, and in the patch of backyard outside the window I remember sitting and building a fence with my dad while our new Siberian Husky puppy, Misha, ran through the yard and into my eight year-old lap.

I won’t be in this house long. It’s been a month, and at the most I’m anticipating one or two more. But the way I feel here, the rhythm of push-twist-turn on the bathroom lock, the nights that take our family cooking in the kitchen and then out into the living room to watch a favorite show, the walk up to the church, these rhythms feel like I’m connecting to the past.

There’s been a lot of events like that. A few weeks ago I spent the weekend with my grandmother in a tiny town in Louisiana. She told me about riding on a pile of pears in a wheel barrow when she was five, about the man who fell from the tree and died. She told me of scrap heap drives which she and the rest of the cheerleaders led so they could put on sock-hops. I asked her about her family tree and scribbled lines and names in my journal while she went back generations and generations.

I couldn’t get enough. I made here go around the house with me and tell me about everything, about the wooden camels her aunt brought back from her trip to the Middle East. She told me about the clock she carried from Kentucky on the bus to give grandfather who was waiting for her in Houston. I felt like I was in a museum full of stories that weren’t mine but had a part in making me.

When I got home, my mom and her friend had a garage sale. After two years in Armenia, this felt altogether foreign to me, that we would have enough things to sell to neighbors and passerbys, that they would have money to buy our excess. Still, preparing for the sale became another journey through old bits and pieces, through old stories.

The tiny life jacket which my teenage baby sister has long since outgrown, the size of it, the memory of holding that tiny wonder of a sister in my own two hands and tossing her into the water at my side, it all made me well up. And that was just the one baby life jacket.

At the garage sale itself I felt like I’d gone back in time, all of us sitting around tables of our old stuff, sipping Sonic drinks, catching up with people as they stopped by to look for a knife for their collection or to snag some of my sister’s old softball equipment.


We joked around, sweat, and watched as the hours my mother spent digging through old things payed off quarter by quarter.

I feel something real that’s hard to identify with all this old stuff. I’m trying not to become a hoarder, of course, but when I picked up my old plush toy cat, Kitty, when I held that toy, it was like being six again. I remember when we bought her. I remember buckling her into the seat next to me. I remember sitting her on my stomach before going to sleep at night. I remember the feeling of my hands on her back.

It feels like this last month I have reconnected with the ‘old’, with old things, with generations I didn’t know (I found out I’m kind of Welsch!), with a culture that feels as comfortable as my old stuffed animals. Coming out of Peace Corps, out of living abroad for so long, coming back home feels as comfortable as holding that old stuffed cat but also, sometimes, just as out of place.

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There are so many parts of reentry to America to talk about, and I’ve started to make two lists. Here’s what I have so far:

Things that are really not surprising at all:

Super Wal-Mart is super terrifying. For two years, I did grocery shopping the Armenian way. I chatted with shopkeepers, had coffee with my bakery ladies, and shook hands with the vegetable man. There were so many things I couldn’t find in Armenia like brown sugar, buffalo wings, or tostada shells. Still, after growing up on America’s industrial food system, it was actually thrilling to know I could make do and that I actually loved food that was good for me.
I went to Guatemala for a summer during college, and when my mom picked me up at the airport at trip’s end, she took me to Wal-Mart to get whatever I wanted. In the orange juice section I had a breakdown. I couldn’t stop talking long enough to breathe. I hyperventilated. I couldn’t take the aisle of cookies, the plethora of tortilla chips, and now how was I supposed to know which of the juices hit highest marks in taste, vitamin content, price, and what if there’s some orange juice criterion I DON’T KNOW ABOUT!?  Consumer culture made me whack-a-doo. This time I saw it coming years away, and when I go in, I actually alternate between wanting to buy out the warehouse and run from the aisles as fast as I can.  Despite being the only game in this small town, I avoid the place as much as possible.

I can pet dogs. Every Peace Corps volunteer in Armenia felt like their town was the worst when it came to aggressive, angry, barking dogs. Every town had its regular strays, and I had to adjust my route to work to avoid the worst ones. I’ve been in Texas a month, and I haven’t seen a stray dog yet. 99% of the dogs I’ve encountered are well-behaved with owners that treat them like best friends. I’ve got my sister’s dog in my lap right now.

I can take a shower whenever I want to. This is privilege, straight up. I can drink the water. I can do laundry or dishes. I can take a hot shower. And if I want to, I can do this all at 3:00 am. It’s the kind of privilege so huge it inspires guilt.

There are some things that have absolutely caught me off guard:

Our silverware is heavy and shiny and beautiful. I know, not the most massive epiphany. Still, my first day back, I was dropping the silverware into the drawer and couldn’t stop from marveling at the beveled edges, the roses on handles, the gleam on the backs of spoons, the weight of each piece in my hands. In Armenia, I bought all my silverware, some twenty peaces for about $3. I can still feel the edge of a fork against my lip. Each dull piece was simply cut from a sheet and warped. I used to think our Texas silverware was old and dingy. And when I arrived here weeks ago, I at first thought my family must have bought an entirely new set of the same things. But no, the silverware here is just really nice.

I love going to the gym. I know you don’t really know me, and I know I’m lookin’ fly. But this bod hasn’t seen a gym since finishing my college credits in phys ed.  However, after knee surgery, and after a general lack of exercise in Armenian culture, I am so happy to be pushing my limits. I curl things and press things and crunch things, and then I bike until start to drip. And while my jogging figure was a spectacle on the roads of Stepanavan, here I am just one in sweaty crowd.

There are hand-mixers. Do you remember how I made a lot of chocolate chip cookies in Armenia. The landfamily loved them, and I can admit to having way to many, what I called, “Baker’s Dozen Dinners,” where dinner was simply a pile of cookies. (Those were long, cold, and lonely winters!) I have a knack for them now, and the other night my family wanted them. So, I got everything together, including a perfect wooden spoon for the mixing. Butter melted, eggs beat, sugar creamy, I had my little sister start adding the flour.
“This is where it gets a little tough.” I chuckled.
“We have a mixer, you know,” my mother said from the dining room.
For a moment I had no idea what she was saying. Literally, the sentence didn’t make sense. Then, brain finally firing at top speed… A MIXER. I remembered what it was, and I flipped out.
This has actually been my first and only reentry freak-out. Over the mixer. That was the trigger, and the monumental privilege that I now experience slammed me in the face. I have a washer and a dryer. I have a dishwashing machine. I have DVR. I have a comfortable bed. And I have a mixer.


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surprises

This was the original title for the post I am writing now about the expected and unexpected things I’ve encountered coming back to America.

But I had to scratch that title because I can’t say that word without thinking of this.

First of all, did you know Fabio made an album in the nineties? Second of all, I blame Kathryn for ruining a perfectly necessary word of the English language when she burned the track on a mix cd a few years ago. “I like nothing better than to surprise my lady… with a a plane ticket… and a toothbrush… and her bikini…” Oh, dash it all.

However, I will suggest getting a copy of the song for that playist you put on at dinner parties or game night. Inevitably someone will say, “Hey, what is this?” And then ensues a conversation tree that can include romance, bizarre culture, and everyone saying their favorite destination in Fabio-voice. Almost makes up for never again being able to say surprises in an American accent.

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After five days I still haven’t finished unpacking. Armenia feels like a dream I keep trying to sleep my way back to. The world won’t stop spinning long enough for me to get my bearings, but slowly I seem anyway to make my way through the day in this familiar and yet unfamiliar small, Texan hometown of mine.

Here are some of the first things I noticed:

-Hot. So hot. If in the near future you can’t find me, just look around for puddles.

-My sister is tall. She hid from me at the airport, then tapped me on the shoulder mid-other-brother hug. I turned around to see this beautiful, young woman standing where my little sister should have been. Still, goodness if she isn’t the same, bright star I left two years ago, same smile, same laugh. She was just passing by my room and walked in simply for another hug.

-The shiny, heavy silverware. It’s pretty how the end of forks and spoons tapers into leaves and roses, how the edges are rounded, how clearly they reflect my face upside-down. I do the dishes and handle them a little slowly just to look at them.

-The whirring of fans in the morning. In Armenia, my house’s only morning sounds were birds singing outside the window and my breathing. Now I hear the air conditioner and the fan in every occupied room.

-The colors. The dark green of trees, the Arizona Cypress, the Ashe Juniper. The crushed, stalky yellow of dried grass in yards too heat-blanched to give more than some spots of faint green. The blue of pool water. The comforting, deep brown of a cup of Armenian coffee.

-My Texan accent. It is coming back. It is coming back strong

-My Armenian accent. I keep un-aspirating my T’s and saying my vowels funny. This is based on reports from my mother who keeps asking me to repeat things I’m fairly certain I said in plain English (whatever that is).

-My need to kiss. I keep forgetting that a kiss on the cheek is not an American tradition.

-General awe. There are certain times I find myself looking all around with my eyes wide and my jaw open, thinking, “I’m sorry; am I here, like actually HERE, right now?”

Then there’s the new dog, the vertigo, the shiny gym equipment, the sound of tires on paved roads, etc., etc.

There will be more. I wish I had made a similar list in Armenia.

 

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I woke up in a panic this morning. Five days left before I leave Stepanavan. Two of those days will be spent doing a camp in a village near here, so in truth, we’re talking three short days here before I cram everything I own, and something things Peace Corps owns, into a taxi and ride to the capital.

Good news, I did not stay sick, and Easter-In-June was a wild success.

Bad news, I don’t have time for a good post. I have pictures to get printed, camp materials to gather, unseen waterfalls to find, and flesh and blood people I need to reach out and touch to remind myself that I’m still here. I’m having that behind-glass feeling again that makes me want to touch everything before it becomes yesterday’s.

I will say that the last few days have included a taco dinner, uncountable and quickly eaten batches of chocolate chip cookies, Easter celebrations, visiting friends, games, long talks, and sunsets that make me cry. What am I saying? Everything is making me cry. Including the crying ladies at the grocery store, the long speeches about how they will miss me and never forget me, and the Clooker sitting down at the desk across from me, then immediately getting up to kiss me, pressing her tears-wet cheek to mine.

I’ve got things to get to. However, I do need to say that you are one of the main reasons I am here right now. I would never have finished Peace Corps with having you to share it with. I came here to put down some words, show my family some photos, and I found friends to write to, people who let share my love of this place. You win. I owe you big time.

Thank you for sticking around. Thank you for forgiving my faults. And thank you for letting me know you’re around, seeing me through this.

I’m not sure if I’ll write in the next week, with all the moving across the planet; however, I assure you that I’ll be writing about readjusting to Texas, and then the move to someplace new, Stateside or otherwise.

In the meantime, here’s a few photos which I promise are worth checking out, if only to see my landfamily wearing rabbit ears. They are amazing. Oh, good grief. The tears again.

a favorite American friend, visiting and playing nardi

kneading pizza dough with aven

americans and armenians heading out to the dasht

well, obviously, if you see an abandoned bus in the middle of nowhere, YOU GET IN

claire and heghmine

a favorite friend and her mom teaching us to make jingyalov hats (herbs bread)

our tatik is cooking; our imogen is dancing to enrique iglesias. enrique always makes us forget our work.

closing the jingyalov hats

jingyalov hats roasting on a stove-closed fire

my coworkers and i hiding in the trees

eating a strawberry. as cute as a strawberry.

eight

one of world vision's social workers

workers jumping. the one second from the left is the clooker!

a totally happy easter!

loot!

 

applying a foam rabbit "tatoo"

I will miss this place. A lot.

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Yes, I am still in a whirlwind, but I am embracing the crazy ride I’m on. I can already tell you that my 2011 is a wild, wild wave.  I am currently doing a lot of looking in, doing a lot of personal writing. I can’t say how long the void of posts will last; I can tell you that this introspective writing is so good for me right now.

As I tend to do in blog-lulls, I offer some other more interesting places to check out on the web for now.  This round-up includes so many things that are feeding my soul.

1. Thao & Mirah- Went to their concert. Fell in love.  I love women voices.  I love people who sing head-to-toe. I love people who throw themselves away and jump straight into passion if only for a set.  While their concert was more aggressive and raw, this Benetar cover is an example of why they are unbelievable.  Please listen.

2. Sleeping at Last- Their song ‘Side by Side’ is so large in scope and so full of awe I am floored every time.  This is exactly the song and more so exactly the album I need right now.  I just happened to click on their link, downloaded their album, and now I swim in it. And thanks to Derek Webb’s Noise Trade, you can download the album for free and make a donation to the band. Find Sleeping at Last here and sink in.

3. Here’s two similar things I saw first on Best Little Bookshelf in Texas. I love books, the physicality of having a story passed right to me.  And I love these two projects that speak the corporal and visual love of a printed work. See a Lithuanian bookstore’s ad campaign here and enjoy a longer exploration at Corpus Librus. And thanks, BLBIT.

4. I will admit that I don’t read as much as I love books. This I blame on my love for the screen, the need for movies and tv to soothe, to inspire, to cut deep.
For cutting deep, I’ve turned to the primetime soap Grey’s Anatomy. The first few seasons which showed an ideal group friendship got me through some very cold, pretty lonely first nights in Armenia when what I was missing my own group of comrades. And yesterday I finally got to see the sixth season through the end. Yeah, I wept through those last two episodes.  But hitting more personally, a single-episode patient said very tenderly that “Loving someone is a choice you make everyday”. Common, I know, but a reminder that love’s most important decisions are made, not yesterday, not tomorrow, but today.

Ongina, from Season One, who's status as HIV+ is a stepping stone to a performance that challenges us to love all of ourselves.

For inspiration, I have latched onto, stay with me, RuPaul’s Drag Race.  Reality TV. Drag Queens. Ru. A perfect storm, really. But, unlike most reality tv, this is a show that represents the pinnacle of its subject. Drag will not become more mainstream than this.  And as such, the ladies are giving it all on the stage.  There is no contract coming; there is no bigger stage.  And these girls are bringing it.  And as for inspiration, I watched the reunion show after Season 2.  I saw human beings who have dared to explore parts of themselves, their silliness, their anger, their feminine power, parts that much of the world would tell them to box up and bury.  I saw these people who dare to embrace all of themselves, letting all of their parts, even those they might fear, speak out in their lives.  These are people looking to love themselves and share that.
And let’s be real, I like the bitchy drama. (Thanks to ExtraHotGreat for turning me onto this show. Watch it all online here.)

And to soothe, I turn on Parks & Recreation. Before the new episodes aired in January, NPR’s Linda Holmes pleaded that people watch this show, that the writing was the best she’d ever seen, so tightly written for each character. Critically, it’s a easy win. Basically, I guffaw.  And guffawing feels really good.

5. Finally, I stay afloat when I write. I recently bought Alice LaPlante’s printed short-course The Making of a Story.  It’s challenging and caring.  I’m a couple chapters in and I know it’s a project I’m riding through the summer.

That’s quite enough for now. I promise to come back soon. But until then, keep up a good cultural diet with me. I’ll see you soon.

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I have not posted in April, and April is just about finished. This is a crime.  I’m certain your life has gone on without me.  I get that.  However, I like writing, and I came to this blog to do it.

I offer this feeble defense. I have not been writing because my life is in a whirlwind.  (Inner voice: “… … LAME … “) I promise to find some equilibrium soon. And I tend to lean on a quote Elisabeth Gilbert delivers in Eat Pray Love: “You can let yourself off the hook any time you want.” I’m letting myself off the hook.

In the meantime, I did want to tell you this: I had great hair before I left for Armenia.  I’d get lots of compliments.  “What a coif!” they’d say.

Now: “You have Bieber hair.”

“I’m sorry?”

“Bieber. Justin Bieber. You have his haircut.”

To be fair:

my do

his do

I got this multiple times in D.C. Justin Bieber didn’t exist before I left the country.  Then I come back, and he’s appropriated my hair style.  There’s no arguing this point of course because once I offer this bit of pride, I have entered an argument with a 12(?) year-old worth billions(?) who will not be arguing back.

Still, I’m holding my ground.  I do not have ‘The Bieber’.  I have a hair style I like, one I will be wearing for a long time.  And when VH1 does it’s Where Is Their Hair-Do Now? it will be right here.

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Here I am, currently alive in the land of the free and the home of the chili dog, and I haven’t posted a stitch in two weeks.  This is not because I don’t have the time.  I have plenty of time.  This is because I am lost in the swirl, I think.  This has happened to me a few times (example).

I think I didn’t quite understand that when I came to the US for surgery, I came for SURGERY.  Knock you off your feet, heavy meds and lots of bed SURGERY.  For some reason I had it in mind that I would get a couple holes in my knees and then walk right on through DC.  No, I am here in the Capital until the first week of April, getting my knee back to bending.

I am not sure I can dig very deep right now and tell you how my tiny soul is handling being back in the US.  Since DC isn’t home it feels at once familiar and foreign.  To keep it simple, here are some things that have been a part of the last three weeks:

-Velveeta.  Chips and Queso with a soul friend from high school and her fiance.  After a Top Chef marathon.

-A lot of hours alone.  I have cherished time I’ve gotten to spend with friends I have here in the area.  But they have lives to get to, and my life is here in the hotel.  After not being able to stomach more than one commercial break, after being too drowsy to stay awake reading, and after battling the hotel’s crappy internet and losing, I am pretty sure I am one good leg away from turning into the “Yellow Wallpaper” lady.

-Some new PCV friends have made things more interesting.  I’ve met volunteers currently on medevac from Honduras, Peru, South Africa, Philippines, and Ukraine, and I should be getting a roommate this weekend from Kenya.

-I have been meeting some Peace Corps VIPs including Congressman Sam Farr, a Peace Corps founding father Senator Harris Wofford, and Peace Corps Deputy Director Carrie Hessler-Radelet.  And today I was asked to join a small group of medevaced PCVs for a meeting with Peace Corps Director Aaron Williams.  Some major Peace Corps hobnobbing going on.

-Leg raises.  Heel slides. Ankle pumps.  Ice the knee.  Repeat.

Overall, while I am thankful for some great medical care, when I sit alone I get a great sense of being uprooted from my life, from a life of rhythms into which I had comfortably sunk, from a life of sounds and sights and smells and textures and tastes which I still know despite feeling so far removed.

Most of all, I am thankful that I am feeling this now with a chance to return to Armenia and drink it all in before my service really comes to an end.

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In three days I’m flying back to the US for the first time since late May 2009.  I know I said that there was nothing wrong with my knee, but that’s only because I was told there was nothing wrong with my knee.  But after my MRI results were sent to PC Headquarters, the sleuths there found a rip in the old meniscus and have ordered me to Washington, D.C., for surgery.  I found out only a couple of days ago, and since then I’ve pretty much been walking in circles mumbling, “oh lord oh jesus”, while ideas of what I should be doing fly around me like falling cards.

No matter.  Surgery’s a comin’.  No helping that.  But you know what else is comin’:

SANDWICHES.

Because I’m an expat plus I tend to have more cravings that a pregnant lady (see list recorded in my journal since I arrived).  I am going to eat so many, many good things.  Like donut holes.  And tamales (tell me they have those in D.C.).  And I’m going to order pizza!

And if that wasn’t enough, I have some amazing friends to visit.  And if that weren’t enough some members of my family, upon hearing the news, immediately started formulating plans to come visit.  And if that weren’t enough, another PCV in Armenia broke her leg in three places and thus will be traveling with me (sorry about the leg of course but happy for the company!).  And if that weren’t enough THERE MAY BE A LADY GAGA CONCERT IN THE WORKS.

The whole whirlwind of it came over me last night around 3am, and I couldn’t sleep.  Right now I’m in a tiny town in Northern Armenia.  In a very unexpected short amount of time, I will be gawking at paved roads and super stocked supermarket shelves and new buildings and listening to all those English voices all around me. I’ll be hugging my Armenian friends and then screaming and hugging my American people.

I’m not sure I’m fully prepared.  But best believe this is some pretty good story fodder.  Stay tuned.

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A Giutkokwwabipimooacf(*) recently threw the following into her friend’s facebook newsfeeds:

“I would love for someone with a beard to tell me things about the world that only bearded people could know.”

Well, as it turns out, I have recently become bearded.  Proof:

Please save the date accordingly.

 

So as One With A Beard, here’s what I know:

1. Obviously, if you grow a beard you will look older.  Why? Because babies don’t grow beards.  Because the most famous beard is on Santa Claus, and he’s older than dirt.  Because we most often see beards on homeless people and grandpas.  Because Brad Pitt did this and made us ALL feel older:

2. Having a beard precedes a compulsion to check your beard for food. I lick the corners of my mouth at a ridiculous rate during meals; I think my lunch mates have now seen my tongue more than they’d like.  It’s become a little character around the table, coming out to search for food like a ground hog or an eel.  Maybe I’ll outgrow this need to find a mirror after I eat yogurt, but for now TELL ME IF THERE’S FOOD IN MY BEARD.

3. On the upside, the mustache works as a great spoon rake. No crumb left behind.

4. Other things besides food can get stuck in your beard. Lint from your wool blanket, for example.  Or a woman’s hair after an embrace.  Or snow.  My mustache was actually icy after I walked to work yesterday morning, my breath condensing and then freezing on my lip follicles.

5. People will take you more seriously when you have a beard. This one only applies to people who look like teenagers without (a small group, I know).  But after working with Armenians as a twentysomething-seen-as-high-schooler, I now feel just a twinge more confident talking to school leaders and NGO partners who, upon meeting the bearded me, are assured of my manliness and therefore my trustworthiness.  My beard means I know how to throw back vodka shots with the best of them and that I am, in fact, one of the grizzlied Them.

6. Jokes and all, the thing actually keeps your face warmer. Armenia’s current icy wind doesn’t zap my chin like it does my unbearded friends.  Turns out fur IS a good insulator.

6. A good beard is worth talking about. Walk into a room with a new, full beard and people will notice.  You may remember that my mustache made me look like a creeper.  The molestache, I believe, was how it was referred to in some circles.  The beard, however, has garnered much praise.  Wearing it I’ve been called some pretty flattering things. We’re not even talking the fairly common “distinguished” or the kind, “You really do look good with the beard.” I have in fact more than once been referred to as a “sexy beast”.  Just relating the facts here, people.

7. If you can grow a beard, you can change your face. That’s a beard’s appeal to the bearded at it’s most simple.  Even if, like me, you’re not really a big fan of facial hair on others, things change on a personal level when you get a new face.  Every beard is as unique as the bearded soul it sits on.  But inevitably the smile get’s its own space, and the eyes proudly hover above it all.  Even if no one sees your beard or your goatee or your handlebars, you are baffled by the mirror’s reflection as right there, before your eyes, you become someone totally new.  And probably more bad-ass.

__________________

*Giutkokwwabipimooacf- girl I used to kind of know whose wicked awesome blog is proof I missed out on a critical friendship

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