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Archive for the ‘home’ Category

I’m sitting in the room I grew up in. We moved here when I was six. On the end of my bed is a quilt my grandmom made for me with the state of Texas sewn over large squares of white. Sunlight comes in through a window, and in the patch of backyard outside the window I remember sitting and building a fence with my dad while our new Siberian Husky puppy, Misha, ran through the yard and into my eight year-old lap.

I won’t be in this house long. It’s been a month, and at the most I’m anticipating one or two more. But the way I feel here, the rhythm of push-twist-turn on the bathroom lock, the nights that take our family cooking in the kitchen and then out into the living room to watch a favorite show, the walk up to the church, these rhythms feel like I’m connecting to the past.

There’s been a lot of events like that. A few weeks ago I spent the weekend with my grandmother in a tiny town in Louisiana. She told me about riding on a pile of pears in a wheel barrow when she was five, about the man who fell from the tree and died. She told me of scrap heap drives which she and the rest of the cheerleaders led so they could put on sock-hops. I asked her about her family tree and scribbled lines and names in my journal while she went back generations and generations.

I couldn’t get enough. I made here go around the house with me and tell me about everything, about the wooden camels her aunt brought back from her trip to the Middle East. She told me about the clock she carried from Kentucky on the bus to give grandfather who was waiting for her in Houston. I felt like I was in a museum full of stories that weren’t mine but had a part in making me.

When I got home, my mom and her friend had a garage sale. After two years in Armenia, this felt altogether foreign to me, that we would have enough things to sell to neighbors and passerbys, that they would have money to buy our excess. Still, preparing for the sale became another journey through old bits and pieces, through old stories.

The tiny life jacket which my teenage baby sister has long since outgrown, the size of it, the memory of holding that tiny wonder of a sister in my own two hands and tossing her into the water at my side, it all made me well up. And that was just the one baby life jacket.

At the garage sale itself I felt like I’d gone back in time, all of us sitting around tables of our old stuff, sipping Sonic drinks, catching up with people as they stopped by to look for a knife for their collection or to snag some of my sister’s old softball equipment.


We joked around, sweat, and watched as the hours my mother spent digging through old things payed off quarter by quarter.

I feel something real that’s hard to identify with all this old stuff. I’m trying not to become a hoarder, of course, but when I picked up my old plush toy cat, Kitty, when I held that toy, it was like being six again. I remember when we bought her. I remember buckling her into the seat next to me. I remember sitting her on my stomach before going to sleep at night. I remember the feeling of my hands on her back.

It feels like this last month I have reconnected with the ‘old’, with old things, with generations I didn’t know (I found out I’m kind of Welsch!), with a culture that feels as comfortable as my old stuffed animals. Coming out of Peace Corps, out of living abroad for so long, coming back home feels as comfortable as holding that old stuffed cat but also, sometimes, just as out of place.

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After five days I still haven’t finished unpacking. Armenia feels like a dream I keep trying to sleep my way back to. The world won’t stop spinning long enough for me to get my bearings, but slowly I seem anyway to make my way through the day in this familiar and yet unfamiliar small, Texan hometown of mine.

Here are some of the first things I noticed:

-Hot. So hot. If in the near future you can’t find me, just look around for puddles.

-My sister is tall. She hid from me at the airport, then tapped me on the shoulder mid-other-brother hug. I turned around to see this beautiful, young woman standing where my little sister should have been. Still, goodness if she isn’t the same, bright star I left two years ago, same smile, same laugh. She was just passing by my room and walked in simply for another hug.

-The shiny, heavy silverware. It’s pretty how the end of forks and spoons tapers into leaves and roses, how the edges are rounded, how clearly they reflect my face upside-down. I do the dishes and handle them a little slowly just to look at them.

-The whirring of fans in the morning. In Armenia, my house’s only morning sounds were birds singing outside the window and my breathing. Now I hear the air conditioner and the fan in every occupied room.

-The colors. The dark green of trees, the Arizona Cypress, the Ashe Juniper. The crushed, stalky yellow of dried grass in yards too heat-blanched to give more than some spots of faint green. The blue of pool water. The comforting, deep brown of a cup of Armenian coffee.

-My Texan accent. It is coming back. It is coming back strong

-My Armenian accent. I keep un-aspirating my T’s and saying my vowels funny. This is based on reports from my mother who keeps asking me to repeat things I’m fairly certain I said in plain English (whatever that is).

-My need to kiss. I keep forgetting that a kiss on the cheek is not an American tradition.

-General awe. There are certain times I find myself looking all around with my eyes wide and my jaw open, thinking, “I’m sorry; am I here, like actually HERE, right now?”

Then there’s the new dog, the vertigo, the shiny gym equipment, the sound of tires on paved roads, etc., etc.

There will be more. I wish I had made a similar list in Armenia.

 

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I’m back.

After a week of tears and hugs and the kindest words said to me by the kindest friends, I have arrived in this tiny town in Texas.

I took three flights, two with one of my fellow Peace Corps adventurers, and then a third alone. I followed that up with a missed connection which resulted in a very disappointed family and a slumber party for me in the Atlanta airport with very friendly strangers. I finally arrived two mornings ago to the hugs you see above (thanks for the pic, Mom!) and a bag of Shipley’s donut holes.

There was a party that night with so many of my very favorite things like tostada fixings, chips and dip, pulled brisket sandwiches, watermelon, and fresh fruit and veg galore. It was quite the fatted calf. And goodness did I ever feel so welcomed in my life. Moments before the first guest arrived I threw up my maps of Armenia, Yerevan, Stepanavan, as well as pictures that so recently hung on my Stepanavan cottage wall, and then it was five hours of talking with old friends from church and down the street, new friends that  have heard about Armenia through my mom and dad, and teenage friends of my sister, who like her, were just the tiniest little people before I left.

At church the next night I was asked to talk about Armenia and Stepanvan and World Vision and my dear friends that I carried here in my heart. And those kind Texas people asked all the right questions and before I knew it I’d already talked about Privolnoye and my World Vision crew and Meri and Greta and sights and sounds and tastes and dreams I have about returning to that place.

This morning I woke up in a room that my mom and tiniest sister spent hours preparing for me. The drawers are waiting to hold my newly machine washed clothes, and the walls are ready for pictures. My older sister and our oldest brother were both here for the party, hugging and smiling, refilling my glass and making sure there were helping me land, and when they left to go back to their houses I wanted to beg them to stay. We’re all here now, and my family is helping me land with ease. While I haven’t got all my emotions together I find myself not wanting them to leave my sight because believe it or not a whole world seemed to just blink out a few days ago, and my subconscious fears are wanting to scramble and hold on to everything I love.

And there it is, I just named the unnamed tension I feel in my chest. I just had a realization in this very moment that there Armenia went, and in a blink returned a world I love, and it just feels like the world is spinning faster than I remember it.

So happy my family is helping me adjust to this new whirling world. So much missing the rhythm of my life in Stepanvan.

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This started as a tiny effort to show you guys my house here in Stepanavan. It became a multi-day ordeal as I waited for each cloudy day’s hour of sunlight to do another take. It became a THING, an event my landsisters and I did every afternoon for almost a week. They loved it, began to tell visitors to their house that they had to help me make a video, that they were my ‘astghiknere’, my little stars. (You can see Greta explaining this to her grandmother in the video.)

I have never felt more myself than I have in this little cottage. It has been a refuge from the cold winter. It has been my favorite reading spot. I have laid out my mattresses for many sleepovers on the cottage floor. I have reveled in morning light coming in through the windows, beckoning me to get out of bed, eat breakfast and read, and then dance my way through daily chores. Every inch of the place feels like me, more than any space ever has. I am the first person to ever live in this house, and right now, for three more weeks, it feels all mine.

(There are a lot of Peace Corps House videos up on Youtube. I like to peruse them and imagine my life around the world. Here’s a friend of mine and her Peace Corps House in Sevan, Armenia. Here’s another friend’s home in Honduras. Take a look around the vids; tell me which ones get you dreaming about life in a new place.)

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Two nights ago I spent hours and hours trying to find a plane ticket, trudging through travel website after travel website like I was chopping through a marsh with a box cutter, looking for the ever elusive, speedy (less than 24 hours), cheap ticket to the States.

Three days ago I found out I’ll be leaving a month early, July 15, for home.  Now that feels like a strange word. All this time I’ve been giving that word, ‘home’, to Texas, more and more tentatively as I have felt a change coming on.  After recent time visiting America, I started giving the name to Armenia, and surely, as soon as I returned to the cottage in Stepanavan, I felt my entire soul relax.  Sitting in my arm chair with a hot meal and an episode of Mad Men, or baking cookies for my landsisters whom I can hear through my window playing in the garden, or the clapping of tiny pucks on the nardi board as my landlord, Artur, starts taking the game, singing “Aysor im orn e; aysor lav or e” (“Today is my day; today is a good day.”), I feel at home.

The cottage, Stepanavan, winter 2011

I love that family. I am so thankful for that tiny house in their garden. I have never felt more at home, more in love with a space, than I have in this tiny house. And in less than seven weeks I am moving out. Reminds me of how I felt leaving my parent’s house in Texas exactly two years ago. The taking-it-in time is here.  The missing is about to start.

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I returned to my Armenian town just days ago. Last time I was here, the night brought quarter size snow flakes, and the morning was covered in it eight inches deep.  I flew southwest where I ate mounds of Mexican and Thai and Vietnamese food, relished in Americanness like drag shows, Just Dance, and Thursday night gatherings around “Parks & Rec”.

Now I’m back in Armenia with just a few months before the end of my Peace Corps service, and I’m feeling some things.

1. I so much miss having a group, those friends you see every week for some show you love or at some favorite haunt. I can not wait to go home, reconnect to old friends, make some new ones. Texas, watch out; I’m about to go friend hunting.

2. I am terrified of my future. Job(s)? School? New me v. old me? I lay awake at night wishing all my questions were answered. Will the car I left behind still be broken? Can I survive temping in Austin for a while? Bigger and bigger questions bob to the surface. Here comes that moment I’ve been wondering about for two+ years.  There seems to be so much potential in my return home; can I harness it?

3. How will I handle ‘the missing’? I am utterly in love with this place.  My cottage is my own home in a way that no other building has ever been.  My friends here are so special to me, bring out so many parts of myself I didn’t know existed before their Armenian outing.  I love the mountains, the cool spring, the sunny mornings, the dinners in our office kitchen.  They say that returning home after Peace Corps is much harder than leaving in the first place.  One reason for sure will be saying goodbye to a life I will almost surely never live again.

My time here, which used to seem like a pool I could swim in, seems now like a small collection cupped in my two hands.

Every time I leave a place there is that feeling of deep richness, of knowing myself so much more, of loving the world more profoundly.  There is also a loss, a longing to hold onto something intangible, a sense of the temporal that cuts down ultimately to my knowledge of mortality.

Here it comes. A sweeping change.

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A couple of days ago, I saw something discarded, stopped, pulled out the camera and took a lot of pictures.  I think for some reason I felt just like that umbrella.  Maybe you can see what I mean:

I am tired of having to think so much about how and how much I can walk.  I hate counting the blocks and wondering if I can make it to the grocery store and back on my own.  I don’t want to feel so useless.

But, seasons pass in years, as they do in months, days, minutes, and now I am feeling an upswing from spring.  Those tiny buds, those blossoming cherry trees, those barely showing leaves and their earliest salutations.  It’s wonderful how the breaking of spring tends to break a monotonous gloom.  I am happy to be walking in the sun.  I am happy to be here in the US, going to the grocery store again and again.  I am happy to be healing, slowly but surely.  I am happy for parks, for people walking their dogs, for cupcakes, for late night talks with friends, for being alive and able to enjoy.

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My sister, my tiny bright star of a sister, called me on Friday night to tell me she made third bass drum in marching band.  The thought of her lanky frame carrying that big round drum, gliding along in formation around the field, thumping out rhythms with memory and concentration; the thought of these already short years she has before her in a marching band, the bus rides to games, the late night uniform storage, the contests, the cadences, she has so much to look forward, too.

I am bursting with pride.

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I bought a book last night,  My Mother She Killed Me, My Father He Ate Me edited by Kate Bernheimer. I wasn’t going to buy more books while I was here (WHO AM I KIDDING?).   This book, though, almost creeped up and into my arms.  It’s an anthology of stories inspired by fairy tales from around the world, written by some great names like Joyce Carol Oates, Neil Gaiman, and Michael Cunningham.  EXCITED.

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It’s snowing right now outside my window.  The town is quiet, the skies grey.  The ground is wet from yesterday’s melt, and the old snow sits waiting, hard and icy under new powder.

I thought I might be doing some more traveling during this Nor Tari break.  Offices and schools are still closed; stores have just opened in the last couple of days and are selling the food they had before the New Year, still waiting for new stock to come in on trucks from the capital, from Georgia and Iran.

My friends, two Fulbright scholars who live and work in Yerevan, came to visit me and stayed for three full days of tea-chatting, game playing and spontaneously dancing to the occasional spicy beats coming from my iTunes on shuffle.

While our days were fun, the nights turned pretty sour for me.  While the two friends were slumbering peacefully some type of sore throat sickness turned me into a night zombie.  You know what I mean; it’s that thing that happens when you’re sick enough that you can’t sleep.  You toss, you turn, you sit straight up in bed and pound the mattress hard with a terrible frustration.  Your mind spins one line of a song on loop or you mid-sleep dream your way into a totally crazy scenario where you are finally shocked awake by your own octopus arm wringing the neck of a baby goat.  Then, fully awake again you flex your legs as hard as you can because now, at 3am aka the ungodly hour, you are fitful and restless.

After a couple of these kind of nights, I decided to give in to the Awake and I sat up in my bed, knitting and listening to podcasts while my friends slept.

On their last morning I sent them off and then collapsed into my chair with the sudden weight of having hardly slept in days.  And this, this is how I encountered the last couple of days during which I have sat mostly alone.

When you’re alone in your own cottage in the middle of a quiet town surrounded by snow and ice, you think.  And I have a lot to think about.  I’m going home in something like six months. Six months.  This feels incredible to me.

I am thinking about going home.  Home.  What does that mean?  Who lives there?  What do I do when I arrive?

Before this week my going-home ponderings have focused on luxury.  Visions of coffee shops and laundry machines and donut holes and city libraries swirled in my head.  But after these last days alone, listening to podcasts, thinking about the US, reading the news, I’m much more harrowed at the idea of re-entering the American fray.

Today I was visiting with my friend who pointed me at that latest news out of the States, the tragedy in Arizona.  I know that reports are still streaming out of every news machine orifice, that the story will be chewed on to exhaustion.  While our hearts go out to the families and communities affected, we brace ourselves for the debates to come, the shouting from opposing squares of the tv screen.  My friend also pointed out the current bill proposition attacking birthright citizenship, which will join discussions of the Arizona shooting.

I looked at her after reading these and said, “Oh god, what are we going back, too?”  The United States is the home of the free and the brave.  But honestly, it’s also the home of the scared and the scary, the worried and the hating, the fear-mongering, the industrial-food-pushing, the hate-preaching, the vitriol-blasting, and the super-greedy.  So many people I meet dream of going to the US, imagining the hope that it somehow still represents to many struggling people all over the world.

Maybe it’s just that I’ve grown up.  In my young adult years I’ve traveled to many places outside the US; I’ve seen fear and hate pull tight the thin fabric holding communities together.  I’ve seen some of those community fabrics tear, seen the most lonely souls spill out.  And before I thought that such fear was primarily a non-American modality.

But lately, from another hemisphere I’m looking at that place I’m soon going to land, and I think, ‘Brace yourself.  That country you love, it’s churning up something wild and scary.  Yeah, hold onto those fleeting flowers, those bits of beauty back home.  But you’re going to need to roll up your sleeves because if we don’t all start doing some heavy loving, if we don’t start reaching out to each other, those loneliest souls are going to start falling away.’

In a lot of ways I am very happy to be going home.  But in some ways, I am realizing that it will soon be time to be a small but active part of healing our wounded country.

 

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Remember that gnarly throat picture of last post?  Even though that picture was from last year, I’m that kind of sick again.  Can’t quite kick the cough.  Kelly, who was sick for our entire Turkey trip is still battling her cough as well back in Fort Worth, and this has caused me to contemplate where I might like to be nursing my cold right now.  I’ve come up with my ideals:

1. On the green couch at my parent’s house.  Tivoed Survivor episodes and chips and dip lulling me into a couch coma.  Dad coming in the house with grocery bags, one of which holds some echinacea tea and box of aloe-treated tissues.  Home.

2. Seattle Greys.  This, of course, has everything to do with my inability to sleep the last couple of nights and therefore my ability to marathon the first season of Grey’s Anatomy.  This also has everything to do with my wanting to be in a fantasy hospital full of beautiful people and a few minor traumas.  The guy with the cheating wife and the hidden ovary would quickly make me forget about my sore throat.  And maybe Izzy would bake me something.

3. Kolkata, first building on the left after the Tamil slum by the train station in Dum Dum Cantonment, Shaji and Beena’s place.  I have been sick there twice in my life.  The first time completely smashed my notions of hospitality and care.  When I was in college I thought that someone showing up at your house with a grocery bag full of canned soup and some Kleenex was a big deal.  But when I caught some monsoon season flu in Kolkata, Shaji and Beena took me into their home.  They called up their doctor to come see me.  They made me a pallet on their livingroom floor, shared their meals with me.  And at night they covered me and pot of hot water under a sheet, letting me breath in the steam while they sat around me and talked.  They became a second family to me during those late night steam baths, and let me tell you, they know how to take care of a sick person.

4. Right here, as it turns out.  Armenia and India are similar in this way.  Being sick in America is an isolating experience.  Being sick in Armenia or India is communal.  My landmom came over and fixed up my bed with another mattress to help me sleep at night.  My friends at work came armed with medicine, herbal tea, and rasberry muraba to battle my illness.  Their constant inquiries as to my health, the constant offerings of traditional remedies like a swig of lemon tea, the application of a vodka rub all over my body, or even stuffing my nose with vodka soaked cotton, they all seem to be a great effort to try to make me feel better.  It’s like their sickness is my sickness.  A simple idea with some profound follow through.

A while back my brother sent me a desk-sized Gonzo (because he knows me), and the Clooker rearranged them this week to show me some love (because turns out she knows me, too.)


So, I’m sick, but as it turns out, I’m in one of my four ideal places to be sick.  That’s pretty good, right?

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I’m still sorting through pictures and thoughts about Turkey.  That post will come soon enough.  However, upon landing in my cottage a couple of days ago, my thoughts have moved quickly off of what feels like a dream of water-pipes, Ikea, cheesy bread, and Turkish hipsters.

I’m home in Armenia, and after arriving here on Sunday, the first days of the week found me hosting Danelle, a new volunteer who arrived this summer and now works at a kindergarten and at a children’s NGO in a small town by the Georgian border.   We spent some time comparing our experiences which led me to recall how I felt around this time about a year ago.

A year ago I was considering going home.  After a couple of months the previous spring working for an organization in Kolkata slums, I came into Peace Corps not expecting to enjoy it.  I originaly gave myself six months to either love it or leave it.  This time last year I wasn’t sure if I was loving it and told a friend I would go to our All Volunteer conference and would make a decision afterward to stay or go.

Around this time last year, I took this picture:

I actually found it a couple of days ago when sifting through files, looking for something to submit for our volunteer photo contest, something for the category “I, Volunteer”, something that was supposed to shed light on ‘the volunteer experience’.

I was sick then, as I am now.  I had a sore throat.  I hadn’t slept through the night for days.  I would wake up at night, the freezing air sitting heavy on my cottage without the threat of central heating.  I’d turned on Friends.  (I explained to a fellow volunteer, “I watch television shows so much more than movies here.  I used to prefer a movie alone at home.  But now I’m watching Friends because, as lame as it sounds, I like that fact that when I turn off my computer at night, I know I’m going to hear the same voices in my living room tomorrow.)

That night, without a flashlight to look in the mirror, I felt a flash of brilliance and whipped out my Canon for a shot at my tonsils.  Despite being equipped with a Digital Macro setting, the Canon didn’t do the trick but instead gave me pink, cavernous blurs, a slobbery abyss to stare at and wonder if indeed I had strep or some kind of something growing on my stinging throat.

I was in a state of loneliness I had never reached before.  My Armenian community was trying, but at the time I was still hoping for something akin to movie nights, late night taco runs, or long kitchen chats that, often without our full appreciation, keep our souls afloat.  I was longing for social structures I understood.  I was longing for a place that felt like a comfortable fit.  I was longing for a friend that could take a look down my throat and tell me how sick I might be.

I have since, of course, come to feel quite at home here.  I treasure my landfamily.  On Kelly’s first night here my coworkers were holding a party for work birthdays in August, and during my toast to them, I could hardly hold back tears saying how proud I was to be able to introduce Kelly to my Armenian friends.  I will likely be sitting in Texas this time next year wishing for a khorovats with friends and whispering to myself those Armenian phrases that have been stitched into my soul fabric. The tables have turned, and I know I’ll be in Texas wishing for some Armenianess, wishing, for example, that I could walk into a neighbor’s home on a whim and sit down to warm smiles, good conversation and a steaming cup of coffee.

I am so thankful that I can say, “I love it here.”  But my time in this place has surely not been without its moments of profound loneliness, and as I begin to round the homes stretch of my term of service in Armenia, I think I’ll be hoping to find out how all of this, the bright days and dark moments, have shaped me into the person I will be in the years to come.

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